Rodin Museaum, Les Invalides, Eifel Tower, Fauchon and the Opera Garnier

Yes, I've had a busy day. So busy in fact that I took 333 photos on my camera, beating my last high photo day of the trip of 279. We went more places today than any other day and it was a lot of fun because of this.

I wasn't very excited at first to be dragged along to the Rodin Museum. First, this was the third museum in a row, second, we saw a lot of Rodin's work at the Orsay. The Orsay didn't have The Thinker, so that I was interested to see.

The Rodin museum is right next to Les Invalides. The grounds are Rodin's home, which by the way, was government issued, and quite the fine government issued house indeed. This is another place that I know would look much nicer in the spring or summer. The gardens were all dead, but you can tell that they would be beautiful when everything was in bloom. Sitting in the garden were some of his most stunning works: The Thinker and the Gates of Hell.

Everyone in the metro on our way to the Rodin


Rodin's house/the museum




If he were to turn around he would have a great view


I name this one "Thinking about the Thinker"




The story behind this piece is pretty sad. It is called the The Burghers of Calais. How the story goes is that the Bughers, or I suppose the elders, of this town decided to hand the key of the city over to the British when they invited during the 100 years war in the hopes that they would treat the town's people better because of their compliance. From the sculpture you can assume how that went:


Near the Burghers of Calais was the original Gates of Hell which I saw a copy of at the Orsay. I must say, in the original Bronze it is a lot more powerful. The darkness of the medium adds such an ominous feel to the piece


A close up of one corner:


You may notice the Thinker making an appearance on this sculpture. The Thinker's original title was The Poet, the Poet being Dante himself. As he gazes down at the Gates of Hell he is contemplating his poem, Dante's Inferno, in which the piece is modeled after.

The Kiss


A few of the pieces he left these nails in


The Cry


Rodin was also a painter, however it is obvious why he is known for his sculptures. In one room there was a random Van Gough and Monet hanging. I looked up and saw the Van Gough and thought to myself, "wow! That's a lot nicer looking than his other paintings!" Then I realized what I was looking at.


They had a TV in one of the rooms showing how Rodin carved his marble sculptures. They were absolutely amazing. He would stand back, look over the space very carefully, then come in and make a few very committed hammers with the chiseled as pieces of marble flew into his beard, then he would stand back again and observe once more.


After the Rodin we headed over to Les Invalides. Les Invalides was built under Louis the 14th as a military hospital. The building wasn't always this stunning. The dome, the building's most stunning feature were added shortly after the completion as a royal chapel. Today Les Invalides is most well known as being the final resting place for Napoleon. The floor of the royal chapel was cut into and his large sarcophagus was laid to rest there in a very elaborate grave. It also houses a very complete French military museum (hold your laughter) although it is under renovation right now.

I wish I had gotten better photos of the outside, but it was raining and I didn't feel like taking my camera out again.


In any French monument it is always important to look up, for the ceiling is always very interesting


On the main floor there are many other crypts that hold Napoleons relatives and generals he served with or great ones who served after him. This is the tomb of I believe his brother


Here is one of Napoleon's hats and coats on display. I'm pretty sure the coat would fit me (I'm 5'2)


View of Napoleon’s crypt


Flowers at its base


Napoleon died in exile outside of France. It was always his wish for his ashes to be returned to the country. I specifically say ashes for a reason. Back then being cremated was not the Christian way to leave your remains. Napoleon did not feel that he would be given a Christian burial. About 20 years after his death he was returned

Surrounding the tomb are a number of intricate marble carvings depicting Napoleon in different Romanesque ways. These figures depict the good that Napoleon did, from the schools he opened to the monuments he built. All of the inscriptions read are in first person, making them seem very haughty at first. When you learn that they were constructed after his death you realize the immense amount of respect and reverence people had in him at this time. It is fairly obvious from these carvings that Napoleon was very godlike to the people.


The inscriptions are being translated for us


After Les Invalides we went to lunch as a class. I had very tasty salmon and awesome chocolate cake. When we left the restaurant we sort of split up. Half of us and the professor walked a block over to the Eiffel Tower, the other half went shopping.

We passed the Military Academy on the way. The grass in front (and under) the Eiffel Tower used to be where the French Military ran drills. They don't use it any more, obviously (insert French Military joke here).


Okay time for the quintessential Eiffel Tower jumping shots




I love my new camera, I set it on continuous shoot and told the Professor to just hold the button down. Everyone got perfect jump pictures because of this. Fun idea too, much better than the standard stoic pose.

We bid our Professor adieu at this point and went to Le Fauchon, a VERY trendy shop that sells everything from meat to the most beautiful cakes you can imagine, all very fresh. Across the street from Le Fauchon was another Fauchon with boxes and boxes and tins and tins of all sorts of treats you could buy to take home. The store is located off of the Madeline metro stop and expect to spend quite a bit of money there. However, in January there are tons of sales so you can get some good deals.








After this we went to the Opera Garnier. This Opera house was built during Haussmann's revitalization of the city. It became the center of Paris, showing the transition from the old center of life: the church (Notre Dame) to the new center: the arts. Being the new center of the city the building is very ornate and stately, commanding as much attention now as it did back when it was first built. Going inside isn't free: it is eight euros or four with a student pass. As a note, if you arrive here half hour before a show you can get standing room only tickets for 10 euro. So you can see the Opera and a ballet for just two euro more. You won't have as much time to take everything in either. If you want to see a ballet, but standing for 3 hours waiting ants dance from the back of the house isn't exactly your idea of seeing the Paris Ballet, then in the basement of the Opera house (easily accessible from the main stairs) they show old ballets and operas. The camera is much closer than you would ever get and there are chairs. Perhaps the perfect balance between seeing a performance and getting a good view of everything.







The hall


There are many other rooms at the Opera house. From what I gathered, back in the 1800s going to the Opera was not the same as it is now (well I wouldn't know how it is now since I've never been but I have seen plays and ballets). Before the Opera everyone would gather together and mingle, and perhaps they did so afterwards as well. In this room they were setting up for an event, and there is also a performance tonight. Perhaps not much has changed in the Paris opera experience.





There was a library in the Opera as well. Here there was an artist sketching. This city is still very art oriented. I've seen painters and sketchers everywhere. I'm sure if the weather was nicer I'd see plenty more outside of the building as well.


Then we went to the basement where some costumes are kept and the old performances are played




After this Erin and I went to dinner at a Chinese restaurant. It was excellent. I don't think I'm much of a fan of French food. I think it is because 10 euros just doesn't buy you much in way of good French food around here. You can get a dry sandwich and a drink for that price. The Lebanese place and the Chinese place were comparably priced with far more satisfying tastes. We even got desert tonight, this fabulous morsel called the mystery. The name was a mystery to us because the ingredients were clearly listed. It was an almond ice cream covered in toffee like candy. Just pure decadence. Towards the bottom the name made sense when we struck a little ball of pure powdered sugar (as if it isn't sweet enough, we mused) that ball was our mystery. I'd like to get it again to see what my mystery will be next time. Maybe some chocolate?